Reflections on my experience: an excerpt from my Service Learning final paper

Victor and I, and the canasto he taught me how to make

“It was in this last month that I really began to get pleasure from things I hadn’t yet fully appreciated. The trocha ceased to be a chore and a literal pain, and instead became exercise that my body craved, a time for reflection, and an opportunity to see a beautiful view every morning, the kind of view that takes me an hour or more to drive to where I live in the States. Pelo de gato became a way to make the world more beautiful, more shimmering, more reflective in the literal and figurative sense. The sunsets only got more and more incredible (as they apparently do when December comes around), with more intense and brilliant colors, enhanced by the reflection of the colors against the clouds in the sky. The bird’s calls became my morning song, that I probably won’t realize I enjoyed unless they’re absent from my mornings in the States. My Spanish ability considerably improved, and so my conversations with my family, especially my mom (Edith), became more meaningful and more frequent. My host-dad (Milton) told me my Spanish was fantastic in comparison to the beginning when I came and could only speak “un poquito.” I felt thankful when Elsie (Oldemar’s wife – Oldemar was the coffee farmer I did my service learning project with) told me I was always welcome in the house, to visit or use internet or whatever, and the times she fed me without asking or having to. Every time I walked into my room and my clothes were folded or my bed was made, I was so deeply appreciative of the small things Edith did for me my entire time here. I felt a pang of sadness of leaving every time my host-parents did something very parental: when I said I felt tired on a ride up the trocha and Milton rubbed my forehead like I was his child and said, “Ohhh lo siento!” or when my mom served me a plate of food and for the first time said, “Kendall, tome!” from the kitchen just like she does with her kids, instead of just placing my plate on the table. Or just now when I said goodbye to Milton for the last time, and he said, “Cuando usted viene a Costa Rica, es su casa,” pointing to the floor and an extending an invitation to me (that he may or may not extend to everyone else, but it felt good all the same). I felt an odd sense of perfection and everything falling into place when I was making the canasto with Victor (Edith’s dad) and he was saying how it’s going to be difficult for me to continue weaving after him because I would need to weave to the right, because he is left-handed and was weaving to the left (this was all spoken in tico super-fast Spanish to Edith, so I didn’t understand). Then Edith asked me what hand I use, and I said my left, and I realized what they had been saying and we all started laughing at the coincidence because most people are not left-handed, and Edith said, “Que suerte!” and I was thinking to myself really how lucky I was. I was learning a skill from someone in his 70s who does not speak my language, and we were able to go beyond our differences and bond with this canasto he taught me to make (he told me none of his kids had wanted to learn). Working with Victor was one of the most real experiences that I have had in this entire larger experience. I understood most of the conversation we had and his instructions. I got to see old photos of my host-family all around the house, which I really enjoyed. Kevin and Daniela (my host-siblings) came over a little bit later and Kevin took out a game in the separate room and for the first time I heard him say, “Donde esta Kendall?” because he wanted me to play with him. I was so content and so happy. And that’s just it: I am so lucky, even if I wasn’t left-handed. I am so lucky to have been able to spend three months in this astonishing place completely different from my home.”

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    Reflection on the Flight Home

    As I fly away, over corrugated rust, bright green fields, infinite mountains, I leave more than I can probably even comprehend.  I leave a family that welcomed me, taught me, and made me feel appreciated.  I leave a little sister that took me on a roller-coaster, wooshing up into uncontrollable giggling and plummeting into manipulative six-year-old antics.  I leave a mother who taught me to make tortillas, embroider, and be more assertive, a lot more assertive.  I leave behind a full semester of classes that asked me to examine Monteverde, Costa Rica, and my life in California through the lens of anthropology, biology, ecology, history, politics and community.  I leave a learning community that shared the struggle to better understand how people work together on this planet, and how that affects our environment.  I leave a little farm house, a little pink bedroom, and a gorgeous view with every brilliant sunset.  I leave a network of crafting women that welcomed me and taught me.  I leave the children of San Luis Alto Escuela, who inspired me with their playful energy and consistent enthusiasm.  I leave Monteverde, where vigilant Quakers police the streets, with the smell of the chanchero wafting in the mountain breeze, and where a diverse community shares art and spirituality in an atmosphere of environmental stewardship.

    But I return to California with so much, including a fabulous manicure from the local latina diva, a goodbye card from mi hermanita, and home made jam from guavas picked on the farm.  I return with new knowledge, new friends, a new family, and a new understanding of the interconnectedness between here and there, art and science, people and the Earth.  I look forward to returning to San Luis, but am also ready to not smell like mold, to eat brussel sprouts and couscous and kale and a good sharp cheddar, to cook like a tica for my friends at home, to go to the bathroom without compulsively checking inside the toilet paper roll for a scorpion (note to future students, this was completely nuerotic, have no fear).  It will be nice to be home, but also to know it’s no longer the only place I feel home.

    Muchisimas gracias a la comunidad de San Luis, de Monteverde, del instituto, por esta experiencia.  Gracias a mis companeras, profesores, a los Quakeros en silencio, a Naomi para los empanadas, a Cath para la yoga.  Gracias a todos para su energia positiva.  Me dieron una confianza nueva y fuerte.  Tambien, no me olvide, porque voy a regresar super pronto, para compartir en la pure vida otra vez!

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      Monteverde – I will never forget you

      “I may not have gone where I intended to go, but I think I have ended up where I needed to be”

       

       

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        The semester coming to a close

        Tomorrow we leave for San Jose. We will have our farewell dinner, and on Saturday, the students will go in their own direction. We will come back to Monteverde. We will have new friends scattered in different parts of the world. For me this is one of the downsides of our modern world: you meet so many people you like, only to have them (and yourself) move far away from each other. Scattering sapiens.

        Some of the things we do here can be quantified. Most, I think not. For the former, for instance, we may track the increase in quail egg production that stems from Stu’s architectural undertakings; we can also count the number of mold spots growing on Grace’s tooth brush, or the gallons of milk Katie helped get to the cheese factory; one could document the number of tortillas our students all made, or how sharp Laura’s machete is. And while some of these processes would indeed be interesting to examine, I still believe that the most important things that emerged from our encounters on these mountains will be best shared with stories, pictures, songs, tears, hugs, laughter. Everyone of our students will be missed as they move on. But everyone will also be remembered because of the intangible moments they shared with each other, with us, and with their homestay families.

        The truly beautiful can’t be communicated or reduced to words. It simply has to be experienced. Despite our limited abilities on this front, I think the stories on this blog do a fine job at conveying beautiful happenings of 9 students living in our community.

        Saludos Amigos!

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          The glories of the rainy season

          Fall semester is during the rainy season, so when we had to weather a week of non-stop rain, some of us went a little crazy. As seasonal depression began to set in, we discovered small black dots and a permeating smell that announced the arrival of our new friends, mold and mildew. Luckily, Grace Goldberg’s creativity and optimism and lovely voice helped keep our spirits up.
          I’m pleased to introduce…. Grace Goldburg!

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            Maíz en San Luis: una entrevista con mi abuela Doña Erminda

            Para mi proyecto de Ernesto hice entrevistas sobre el maíz en la comunidad. Yo hice una entrevista con mi abuela, se llama Doña Erminda. Ella es muy simpática y muy linda. Me gusta  mucho estar con ella. Ella tiene once hijos, la familia Vargas Leitón. Noé es uno de sus hijos. También ella es muy fácil de entender. Para mi es muy difícil entender a mi abuelo, Don Francisco, pero mi abuela habla muy claramente. Ella sabe mucho sobre el maíz. Algo que me gusta sobre el maíz aquí en San Luis es que el maíz es una parte muy fuerte de la cultura y no se vuelve algo con controversia como en los EEUU. Aquí es mi entrevista con Doña Erminda

            ¿Cuando puede sembrar el maíz?

            Usted puede sembrar el maíz al principio de invierno, como en mayo. Un mes antes, necesita limpiar la tierra. También al final de invierno puede sembrar. La gente normalmente siembra tres veces cada año.

            ¿Qué tipos de maíz existen aquí en San Luis? ¿Cuales siembran ustedes?

            Hay mucha variedad.  No recuerdo todos los nombres, pero hay muchos tipos. Nos gusta sembrar maíz amarillo. Sembramos este maíz aquí en nuestra finca. Todo es orgánico y entonces no crece mucho.

            ¿Cuántos meses necesita para crecer? ¿Por qué no usan químicos en su finca?

            Normalmente tres meses para crecer. Siempre crecen más con químicos. Pero, nosotros siempre hemos querido una finca orgánica por la salud.

            Después de sembrar, pero antes de la cosecha, ¿Hay mucho trabajo para mantener el maíz?

            Se necesita limpiar la tierra antes de sembrar, también cuando ha crecido un poquito, debe limpiar la tierra otra vez. Normalmente dos limpias con cada cosecha. Nos llamamos un campo de maíz “una cuarta” de maíz.

            ¿Cuál es la parte más difícil de crecer maíz? ¿Como se guarda el maíz?

            Después de recoger el maíz, se necesita guardarlo bien que no esté húmedo. Si no, llegará a perderse. No sembramos mucho maíz ahora, entonces no se necesita guardar mucho. Pero antes, Francisco hacía una pequeña bodega para poner el maíz. Quita un poco de la cáscara de afuera. Apila todo bien para que no esté húmedo. También puede colgarlo de una línea en el techo adentro de la casa. Para hacer esto, quita casi toda la cáscara. Esto es lo más seguro y las ratas no pueden comer si el maíz así. También puede secarlo bien y ponerlo en un cubo.

            ¿Cómo secar el maíz?

            Si hay sol es la mejor manera de secar el maíz. Necesita secarlo cuando está tierno deja la cáscara y después lo guarda. Mi padre cosechó mucho maíz cuando éramos niños y el guardaba todo en el techo.

            ¿Qué puede hacer con maíz?

            Tortillas. Cuando era niña, comimos tortilla con natilla y café cada día. Tamal mudo, tamal asado, que es más dulce, puede poner azúcar, chocolate, cualquier cosa. Tamal navideño con cerdo o pollo. Biscocho que es masa con queso o natilla, huevo, aliño y Numar y se forma en una bola. Con la masa que ahora tengo puedo hacer pan o tortillas. Zanquochada es algo que mi mamá hizo cuando Macho era bebé y no quería mamar. Usan todos partes del maíz y un poco de cal, moler y poner agua y el bebé puede comerlo en lugar de leche.

            ¿Cuanto tiempo de comer una cosecha de maíz?

            Nosotros y mi padre dimos maíz a las gallinas y a los cerdos para comer. Si hay mucho maíz podemos darlo a los animales o lo vendemos a los vecinos si quieren. Es posible que una cosecha puede durar todo el año. Si se usa todos los días, posiblemente solo medio año. Recuerdo cuando Noé cosechó mucho maíz de la parcela, Margarita tenía bastante maíz después de mucho tiempo y ella me dio maíz porque ellos no podían comerlo todo.

            ¿Cuesta dinero sembrar maíz?

            Nosotros compramos maíz porque recogemos poquito de la finca. No cuesta mucho.

            ¿Ustedes guardan las semillas?

            Nosotros guardamos las semillas. El maíz que tenemos colgando ahora, vamos a usarlo para sembrar. Francisco quita sola las semillas del medio que son grandes.

            ¿Otros pensamientos?

            Pienso que el maíz es uno de los principales cultivos en el lugar. Maíz y frijoles. Mi familia usaba mucho el maíz. Hay muchas formas de gastarlo. Ahora hay un montón de cosas que la gente puede usar en lugar de maíz, como harina, Doña Arepa, y otras cosas. Cuando yo era niña, solo usábamos maíz. Si la gente sigue sembrando maíz no va a desaparecer. Pero mucha gente ahora no quiere sembrar el maíz.

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              Tonk

              Tonk is a card game that I play back in the United Stated.  Similar to Gin, the game involves getting sets of three or more of the same numbered card or straights of three or more in the same suit.  You start with 7 cards and individual rounds can take anywhere from 10 seconds to 5 minutes.  Being good at the game takes some strategy, but to be honest, its mostly luck.

              Although Tonk is not a complicated or obscure game, many people have not heard of it and I am usually not very keen on taking the time to teach it to other people.  Realizing that no one from my group knew how to play, I knew I had to teach people if I wanted to “Tonk” over the semester.  So one day I taught the game to a few of my classmates.  I’m glad I taught them because in doing so I greatly increased my options for people to play with, from just my host sister, to some include some of my classmates.  I have a lot of fun playing Tonk, and the days I spend 30 minutes or so playing always seem like good days.

              In addition to teaching my classmates, I taught the game to my host sister, but she is 12 and is not a very formidable opponent.  I win every time I play with her and, while it is an ego boost, we usually end up switching the game to ‘crazy 8’s’ or ‘speed’ giving her the opportunity for a win and to rub it in my face.  Regardless of who wins, we always have a fun time and in playing I improve my Spanish and bond with my host sister – as well as my classmates.  I sometimes marvel at the fact that something as small as a deck of cards can bring needed friendships and closeness in my home away away from home.

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                Short Beds

                One thing I will not miss about Costa Rica is the short, thinly padded beds. I’m not saying that the provided bed is inadequate; I’m just saying that as a 6ft 2in person sleeping on a bed with a 6foot frame just isn’t too comfortable for me. To deal with this I have grown accustomed to making a sleeping bag like wrapping, with the covers by my feet, in order to put enough padding between my ankles and the end of the bed frame so I can comfortably fall asleep. While still cozy, a longer, more padded, bed or just a bed with out a footboard would be much more comfortable for me.

                I also miss my usual choice between a temper-pedic or feather pillow. By having one of each on my bed at all times it affords me an option of more support vs. more comfort. On some nights when I want to watch TV or do work on my computer before bed, a temper-pedic pillow offers me the neck support I need, while on other nights when I just want a good nights sleep, the feather pillow is the ideal option. In my home stay bed I am stuck with a thin, cotton-fluff-filled pillow every night. While still functional, the cotton-fluff-filled pillow just doesn’t offer my neck the support it needs after a full day of class and neck twisting pain from Muay Thai class. Although some people would say this is a spoiled complaint or a “White Whine,” I am writing this partly just to share my thoughts.

                The main point of this posting, is that I don’t think I’m sticking my neck very far out (on any sized bed) when I say not only for myself, but also the other Living Routes students in Monteverde that many people take things, even things like our own beds and pillows, for granted; and it has taken sleeping in a lesser bed (compared to U.S. standards) using a lesser pillow for three months (compared to U.S. standards) to truly appreciate the comforts of an incredible sleep one can have in ones’ own bed with ones’ own pillow(s). While I have really enjoyed my time here in Costa Rica and the many new friendships I have gained, I know I will enjoy waking up from my first full night sleep back in my own bed in the USA.

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                  Anxious Annie Cooks a Costa Rican Thanksgiving Assisted by an Aggressive Eater

                  This gallery contains 9 photos.

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                    El día de acción de gracias

                    This past Thursday was Thanksgiving Day. The following day I Skyped my parents and heard about family festivities in good ol’ SC, but on the actual day of Thanksgiving our Living Routes group was busy presenting our final projects in our end of the semester symposium. The main mention of Thanksgiving on Thursday was when Eleanor and Adam made a pumpkin pie in the Institute kitchen, which was delicious. A few of us gathered in the kitchen and savored the flavors that remind us so much of home, and considered how in just a short while, we will be back in those places, our respective homes, and this chapter will be closed. Thursday passed without the usual magic of Thanksgiving: bustling kitchens, awkward family members, maybe a football game, and TONS of delicious food.

                    However, yesterday, Saturday, Sara came to my house to make Thanksgiving dinner for our Tico homestay families. I jokingly dubbed myself “Anxious Annie” because I always stress over pointless things, but all in all it was incredibly successful dinner, with significant cross-cultural exchange. Our menu included two chickens (turkey is very expensive and hard to find in Monteverde) that were born and lived about ten minutes down the road in the neighborhood Invu, and were killed for our consumption just on Friday. We made a salad and green beans. We made stuffing, which Sara and I discussed and decided is probably one of the strangest dishes of Thanksgiving, especially if you have no concept of the traditional parts of a Thanksgiving meal. I’m from South Cackalackee, so we had macaroni and cheese casserole, a personal family favorite, and the eggs and milk came from our farm. Because we don’t have a working oven at my homestay house, we ended up frying the chicken. In retrospect, the meal was pretty southern; too bad we didn’t have fried okra… We used a toaster oven to cook the macaroni, stuffing, and pies.

                    Which brings me to the best part, the pies. Maybe I shouldn’t mention this, but since it was Thanksgiving, we sprang and bought apples from the Supermercado although they were likely shipped in from Chile (side note, Sara and I were talking yesterday and she made a comment how she thinks in general, the tropics one-up the States for fruit, let’s face it, they have bananas, oranges, papayas, pineapples, guayabas, and so much more, but we win when it comes to apples and berries — I’d tend to agree). We made an apple pie from my mama’s recipe and I have to say, it wasn’t half bad. In my opinion, though, the best dish was our attempt at a local version of a pumpkin pie, made with a squash grown here called ayote. On Friday when Cristina, Miguelito, and I took a day trip to visit her parents in La Lindora, about a 45 minutes drive away (but I have no idea how far that is in kilometers or miles because everything takes longer on rain-damaged gravel roads). We brought with us pan de elote (bread made from fresh, young ears of corn — DELICIOUS!) because it’s Cristina’s father’s favorite, and when we left they gave us an ayote grown on his farm, and a big bag of other foods he had grown too. Sara and I chopped the ayote into tiny little pieces, cooked it in water until it was really suave (soft) and then drained it and mashed it with a fork. Then we added two eggs (from our farm!), a little milk (from our farm!), cinnamon, cloves, sugar, and tapa dulce (local version of brown sugar made from sugarcane) and poured it into our freshly made pie crust. Thirty minutes in the toaster oven and ta-dah! It was delicious.

                    As we finished preparing the food, Sara’s family arrived from down the road. We gathered around the den, and Sara explained a little of why Thanksgiving is so important to her. She told them how in her family, it’s tradition to say something that you’re thankful for, before enjoying dinner. So we began, and each of the eleven of us (actually, only ten, because Miguelito did not feel so inclined to participate, big sorpresa) mentioned something. In my awkwardness and still lame Spanish ability I shared that I was grateful to have spent my time with great people this semester, and to have spent a very fun afternoon making food with Sara. Although the food was certainly strange to our Tico families, they graciously and politely tried everything. It was a night of laughing and fun.

                    As I begin my final week in Monteverde with Living Routes, I am full of thanksgivings. This semester has been hard, really emotionally, physically, and academically challenging at times. I shed more tears than I care to admit, and there were some moments when I thought I wouldn’t be able to handle another day with the people in our group. But as we come to a close, I am full of so many more beautiful memories than bad. I got a little teary-eyed listening to my Tico dad, Giovanny, say how thankful he is for having me with the family this semester, and that he loves me like his own daughter (I am their first student to stay longer than one month). I am of course happy to be finishing my academic projects in the next day or two and thrilled to spend Christmas vacation with all my sisters (the first time all five Burke sisters will be together in two years!), but returning will be hard too. These three months will be a time that I will remember and treasure as a time that I was in community with beautiful, wonderful people in an incredible place.

                    PS sorry I’m not sorry that I ramble a lot
                    PPS Pictures to hopefully follow soon; Sara has them on her camera!

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