Another week a different adventure!

After three amazing days in Shukshuyaku, sharing with the community, planting, eating, playing soccer, and just loving the time with all of them. We even mixed something called “tierra prieta”, which is a mixture of many things which helps improve the productivity of the land and how long it stays fertile, which is one way of helping prevent slash and burn in excess. Now we are headed to Solo another indigenous community which will most likely be just as amazing, as we will be learning a lot more and definitely experiencing more wonderful moments.

Happy Friday!!!!

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    These days continue to be a blur, and I feel like I always find myself trying to blog with very little time. In just a few minutes we are leaving for the community of Solo. After my experience in Shukshuyaku (which was amazing and I will write about when I get back) I have high expectations for this stay. I am once gain leaving with and an open mind and ready to share some wonderful experiences with wonderful people. Talk to you in a few days.

    Adam

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      Saturday, July 23

      This week has been interesting to say the least. I have spent a lot of time thinking and learning, and thinking some more. It began in an interesting manner and my way of thinking was challenged from the start, but that was why I chose to come to Peru. Fully understanding the spirituality of the Indigenous culture here in Peru has opened my eyes to a world that I have not completely understood. Even now I have more to learn, but it has opened up new doors to facilitate a better understanding in many things. I am really excited to apply this new found knowledge not only to my studies, but also in my own life.
      I also experienced a weird sensation today with my Spanish speaking. It had been improving and I have noticed progress daily, until today. After spending five hours in Tarapoto with Abel and some new friends Tarapoto I think my brain began to melt. I felt like I was back in my very first Spanish class when every word was challenge. I hoping with was a breaking down before the buildup type of situation, but I am going to have to wait see. The next few days of living in a community should be an interesting test.
      For now, I am just going to take in the next few days and see where they take me.
      Adam

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        The Children of Shukshuyaku

        This past week, we had the opportunity to spend three days in the Indigenous community of Shukshuyaku. A half hour drive from our homebase at Sachamama, Shukshuyaku is in many ways (at least material ways) quite far from our American comfort zones—no electricity and outhouses for bathrooms (though I’d like to note very nice outhouses, complete with lovely pink toilet seats). Yet from the moment we arrived Sunday morning, Shukshu felt like home. The entire community welcomed us with the most open of arms, giving up their communal tambo for us to sleep in, inviting us into their chacra (field),  teaching us the sacred rituals surrounding the spiritual side of planting certain crops,  and constantly thanking us for our presence and interest in their community.  I have never felt more welcomed by a host community—especially a community that, generally speaking, has every reason to resent us given the brutal colonial history and racist present of gringo-native relations.

        During the opening and the closing ceremonies of our visit, the Apu, the communally elected leader, presented us with a very special request: “tell others back home about our community. Encourage them to come visit. Help them learn about us.” And so, in an effort to honor this profoundly important request, I’d like to tell you all a little bit about the people of Shukshuyaku, Or rather, a bit about the little people of Shukshu: the children.

        The majority of my time in this lovely community was spent with people under four feet tall but whose energy shot up to the sky. The community has no electricity but they really don’t need it, these children’s smiles could light up any room. They are not raised on Barney, Disney, or fancy gadget-like toys that sing and light up. Rather they are reared on laughter, holding hands, and nature. They have no need for television or computers or any other modern devices aimed at simulating reality; they have blue skies, open fields, and endless imagination. Shyness is an entirely foreign concept to these children, who all eagerly embraced our presence, eager to play soccer or volleyball with the more athletic gringos, and take endless pictures and videos with me.  Below I’ve uploaded only a couple (the internet connection severely limits the adorableness I can share at the moment) of the 150+ photos we took together—they were constantly fascinated and elated by the camera.

        In our three short days together, the children brought me more joy and hope than words in the English language allow me to describe. Like many others around the world, in the days before we left for Shukshu, I had spent long hours glued to my computer screen, pouring over shocking news of the horror and tragedy befallen upon Norway. Reading about a hatred more profound than I like to believe is humanly possible. How, I wondered, can there be any hope for innocence or peace in the world when a country as seemingly peaceful and benevolent as Norway becomes the scene of a neo-Nazi’s murder spree?  A massacre targeting young people no less. How could Anne Frank be correct in her assertion that “despite everything, people are really good at heart” when things like this happen to perfectly innocent people? How could the beauty of the Amazonian jungle mean anything when violence like this exists? What good is all of the spirituality and ecology and culture we’re studying and trying so vehemently to protect when hateful people will always be there to destroy all that is joyful and innocent in the world? In the face of such tragedy, how do you not lose all hope?

        And then I went to Shukshuyaku. And met children who are the embodiment of kind innocence. Of loving joy. Children, who, despite Peru’s racist politics towards indigenous people, despite the food insecurity facing the kichwa, despite a million reasons American news sources find to frown and announce the ultimate doomsday, these children manage to smile. Despite it all, these children laugh and smile. They run and play and hug and hold hands and make hats of flowers. They braid each other’s hair and include every child in every game. They welcome strangers like family and sing songs because they can. These children are the ultimate embodiment of the kind of joy and innocence which the modern world so often lacks. They are unjaded and unabashed in their being. They simply are. Beautiful. Happy. Innocent.

        I hope that the photos below can provide you all one small iota of the joy these boys and girls brought me. I hope that in their glistening eyes and shining smiles you can see the same hope that I saw. And with the gift of their smiles, I offer you a similar challenge to that presented to us by the Apu. Share their innocence with others. Make their smiles a part of your day.  Tell your friends about children in a remote village of Peru called Shukshuyaku. Children who smile and play and laugh despite the world. And take inspiration from them to remember throughout your day, that perhaps people really are good at heart.

        Above: Myself and Jane with some of the children of Shukshuyaku.

        Above: Michael and Sonya, two of my best buddies in Shukshuyaku.

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          Shukshuyaku

          We just got back from the most amazing 3 day stay in Shukshuyaku, a native Qichwa community surrounded by monte. This place is how all communities should be: beautiful, welcoming, united, healthy and happy. We made yana achpa, a man made soil that even after thousands of years maintains its fertility and planted, planted a ton! Three different kinds of beans, yucca, peanut, corn, cilantro, caywa, and onions were put into their communal chacra with the best intentions and a bit of song and dance to kickstart their growth.

          The afternoons were filled with soccer, frisbee and volleyball. I played so much volleyball (usually me against three or four 13 year old boys) that my forearms are now black and blue. It was so amazing to see a group of people that not only worked together during the day but also gathered at night on the field to play until the sun went down…so ideal.

          Our last day we went on a hike to their stream and hopped in to bath and get a quick cloths washing. Our hike ambled through fruit forests of all sorts and ended with Walter, the apu of the town, hacking open fresh coconuts for all. After our siesta that afternoon the thumping and cowbelling of the live banda tropica called us to the tambo down the road where our despedida dance took place. The girls all sat on a bench as we waited for a man to come and ask us to baila, and one by one we all made our way on to the dance floor. After hours of shuffling, stomping and hip swaying the grand finale came and with the apu as my partner we ran in circles hollering and spinning, then jumped up and down and finally twisted and twisted until I thought I was going to die of exhaustion when the song finally ended…

          Immediately after the dance we hustled over to the soccer field where bets where placed on who would win: the morradores or the gringos… unsurprisingly both the boys and girls team from our group lost pretty easily… these Peruvians must just have soccer skills in their blood.

          It was so sad saying goodbye and a bajillion thanks to everybody of Shukshuyaku. In the few short days we were there we had been welcomed with such open arms and really felt like part of the community. It was a truly amazing experience that I don´t think any of us will forget.

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            Immersion…

            Week of immersion… SERIOUSLY INTENSE! So there is this huge fiesta happening all around the town of Lamas where there are 12 main houses (AKA cabesonia) in different neighborhoods (barios) that put on the party for two weeks full of food and drink and music. We were about to spend 4 days helping out with all of the above, in hopes that we would be able to converse and improve our Spanish skills in the field, not to mention have a crazy cool experience helping cooking some pretty classic Peruvian food. I was pretty excited to see what the week had to entail, however without a doubt I was pretty terrified to have to rely on my Spanish skills to make it through the day (especially since I had only been learning Spanish for two weeks). I arrived at the house and right away was confused but figured out where I should be and began helping the older women mix dough for multiple different biscuits and cookies. We mixed the ingredient in this huge wooden boat-like bowl/platter longer than my arm span! It was pretty cool and the ingredients were so simple and seriously local to Peru, some cookies consisted of yucca, eggs, sugar and pig fat while some others used corn instead of yucca but all very similar processes. It was exciting to be there and experience it, but was very difficult for me, having little Spanish in my head and attempting to not only understand but try and spark up a conversation. It was pretty awkward and uncomfortable, but as the day went on I opened up more and more.

            The proceeding days improved with speaking, fun, and comfort. The third day however was no longer mixing dough for bread and cookies but became the meat day…it was interesting. I arrive and they have just started cutting up the pigs and cow…and there I was getting right in the thick of it. The woman of the house pointed me to a place where I could chop and there I went. I was slightly hesitant but knew that this was something I should be able to do since I do eat meat occasionally. There I went cutting away at the fresh pig, as the men next to me chopped the heck out of the ribs and legs and other sorts of body. After being able to stomach it and complete that task, I walked around the corner to the kitchen to find another big boat full of rice and other sorts of herbs that looked absolutely delicious, and a woman at the end with a big pot full of some liquid. I waked over and realized that the pot was full of pig’s blood. It was to my surprise when she then poured it all over the rice… and they started mixing all of that together, WOW. They started to stuff the bloody rice mixture into casings that I later found out were the outer shells of the intestines. When asked if I wanted to help, I could not help but say sure since I had nothing else to do but watch with confusion. It was a seriously intense day full of blood and guts and meat, but I now have a completely different take on meat. Overall my Spanish did improve and I became more comfortable with speaking (a bit) but it was an extremely intense few days, very overwhelming, frustrating, and fun!

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              Revelations on Culture

              Culture is like a river. Never stagnant. Always changing. Affected by everything; affecting everything and everyone. Culture is never changed. It is change. It is non-linnear evolution. It is regeneration. It’s communities doing together. Dancing. Singing. Cooking. Working. Speaking. Dressing. Being. It is both unique and universal. It is in the tiniest corner of the most distant island at the end of the earth and in the middle of Manhattan. It is cosmological. Culture is a series of interdependent interbeings. For aren’t we all intimately and inextricably related cultural beings? All dialectical descendants of the tower of Babel. All speaking the same truths in words that change like seasons, constantly shifting patterns that bring us together and tear us right back apart.

              But take note, there is one thing which culture most definitely is not. A Bystander.It is not a spectator sport, nor an act to watch from the sidelines or backstage. Culture is painfully and joyfully active. It is smiles and tears and laughter and hardship because it is alive. It is a powerful play that goes on and we, lucky beings that we are, may contribute a verse*.

              Over the last week in our Anthropology seminars, we’ve struggled a great deal with this rather ambiguous concept of culture. What does it mean to us (students from the United States)? What does it mean to the indigenous people of Peru? While our readings, discussions, and experiences certainly led to a plethora of possible definitions for the oh so politicized term and often misunderstood term “culture,” the overwhelming finding of our queries was this: Culture is not a noun. Rather it is very much a verb. Active. Evolving. Living. And any political ideology, social movement, or academic discipline that assumes otherwise and refuses to accept the perpetual vivacity of culture is doomed to colonial-inspired misunderstanding and disaster.

              *credit to Walt Whitman’s poem “O Me! O Life!” for its brilliant line “That you are here—that life exists, and identity; That the powerful play goes on, and you will contribute a verse”. A lovely philosophy for life I believe :)

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                New Realities

                This past week has been full of amazing experiences. We began our anthropology course on Monday and started reading about Kichwa-Lamista spirituality. I think everyone has his or her own pre-conceived notion of what spirituality is, and I have found that Amazonian spirituality is completely different then I ever imagined. On Wednesday, we took a trip to Takiwasi, a treatment center for drug addicts that uses psychotropic plants for a 9-month life change. The day at Takiwasi was probably my favorite day here so far. In the morning we had a tour of the beautiful grounds and learned about the treatments that happen there. One of the best things I learned was the there are no bad plants just bad uses.

                We had an amazing lunch in an enclosed Tambo and then all lay down on pillows and rested for an hour. Everything was silent and you could hear the stream near by and birds singing all around. The siesta in general is an amazing idea, it’s a collective time to rest, reflect and refresh in the middle of the day, we have all been talking about away to introduce it in the US, but somehow I don’t think it will fly…

                After the siesta we went upstairs in the main house and the founder of Takawasi, Shaman Jack Mabit, gave us an amazing lecture about Amazonian spirituality. It is difficult to explain without a great deal of context, but I’m pretty confident we each felt an extreme connection to many of the words he said, and the realities he expressed.

                After returning from Takawasi we had a few days of seminars and then ended that section of the course yesterday in the hills with a ritual offering to the spirits at an archeological site. Sitting in the hills with the wind blowing, listening to drums and flute and watching the fire burn as each person stood to cleans each other. It was one of those moments when you look around a say, “is this real, am I really here?” A moment in which you are completely in the present in every way. <3 Cass

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                  What a learning experience…

                  The past two weeks have been full of fun adventures. Last week was the “Patrona” festival which brings the Mestizo community in Lamas together, through a giving back celebration which works on a form of re-distribution; with unlimited “chicha” (a corn beverage), food, and other beverages. Through this whole celebration there are nine households which participate in this and serve anyone and everyone who come to their home. This celebration also includes a band who plays for literally 24hrs, people dance, socialize and do a specific type of dance called “pandillar” which includes a lot of jumping up and down. As a group we participated in this and took part in the pandillera, shared with the community and just had a blast. The week also consisted for a few of us taking part in a culture immersions, we would take part in Kichwa-Lamistas lives to understand what they do and to learn about their trades (from pottery making, to artisan work, weaving, etc.) . This definitely was an amazing experience sharing with this family, learning more about them and also practicing Kichwa, their main language, while I was there.

                  On our day off we went to a beautiful lake which also had the softest dirt in the water and afterwards we went to hot springs to indulge in the delicious hot water. The car ride back was probably the funnest we have had as we sang all the way home for 2hrs.

                  This week has just been an amazing learning experience as we have started the Anthropology course and have been discussing the readings, which has been very interesting to take part in. Listening to everyone and how insightful they are is very interesting and important to hear because we share the same ideas but in many different and important ways. CAN’T wait for the immersions in the indigenous communities this will definitely be an amazing opportunity and i am looking forward to it!

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                    Wayku and continuing exposure

                    Three weeks into program and I’m sinking into the Kichwa-Lamista culture.  The past week was our last week of the Quechua course and a week of immersion in the pueblo of Wayku.  I learned how to make a vela de shapaja(?) (a mat made of palm leaves), a canasta, and a piwano (type of flute) from Simillón, a well known craftsmen very involved in his community’s individual character and one to share that culture with those interested.  He’s a pretty big deal in Wayku.  So learning from him was quite a gift.  I felt privileged to learn under his wing.

                    One important thing I was supposed to grab from that experience was a better understanding of the Quechua language that I have been studying.  That was a hard one.  I think I have a lot of commands down: step on that, put that there, weave that this way, etc.  Though I wouldn’t say I have an excellent handle on especially the listening part.  Speaking was a little easier, so long as I knew the words in Quechua for what I was trying to say.  It’s always grammar with me first, then the rest, which isn’t always the most easy way to understand the oral language, especially since those who natively speak it aren’t really able to give you the low down on the grammar, why you say something this way and not that.  Give me another semester of Quechua and I think I might be able to get it.  It’s a language like none other that I’ve seen, no Latin roots to help me out, so it was really interesting to learn the formation of words via different suffixes and their placement, instead of different words and word placement.

                    Overall the immersion was fairly rewarding.  I learn a couple new crafts, got a taste of how the community dynamics work, who the big dogs are, where the women heat their ceramics, what the traditional dress, music, food, etc. is, etc.  I must say I wish I had gotten a bit larger of a taste of the Patrona that has been going on for the past two weeks, which the Spanish classes were very involved in.  It may be the biggest celebration in Lamas that happens once a year, involving a Cabezonia in each pueblo that prepares the food for a large procession and a large meal, lots of dancing and music pretty much 24/7.  I did get a taste of it though, a little dancing, some Pandillando, dancing in the streets moshpit style filled with energy and only the most minimal sores from getting your feet stepped on, a taste of some fantastic bread, a general vibe of joy and celebration that filled the city, the music constantly flowing.

                    Now we’re about to start our Anthropology course, which may prove to explain a lot more of the historical, cultural, social background to all that we’ve seen in the past few weeks.  I know it will be pretty intense, but I’m excited to see and learn more about where I’ve been living.  There’s a lot to know and I think I’ll be getting a taste of a bit of a lot of it, more visits to neighboring towns, some exposure to medicinal treatments, understanding ritual gift giving, and more.  I’d say I’m pretty pumped for that, really diving in.

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